We've taken the old "nostalgie" trains of the Mariazellerbahn to this charming pilgrimage city four or five times, but it was only on our most recent visit that we chanced on this wonderful family-run restaurant NOT crowded with foreign tourists. It was raining when we arrived, and, looking bedraggled in our soggy fold-up rain ponchos, showed up at one of the better-known brewery-restaurants popular with tourists only to have the door half-shut in our faces as the proprietor pointed to a sign in German that apparently said "full." Disheartened and casting about for a dry, cozy place to retreat for food and a warm-up, we count ourselves lucky to have found the restaurant attached to the Hotel Drei Hasen just a short walk away. There, we were warmly welcomed by staff from the family running the place for the last half-century, shown to a charming table, handed menus featuring traditional dishes that made our mouths water, and treated with the friendliest, kindest attention to a fine meal with Austrians for our companions instead of foreign tourists.This is a great, warm-hearted, authentic place with some of the best local dishes we have found in Mariazell. Chilled to the bone, we opted to begin with the deliciously light and flavorful beef consommé (rindsuppe) with piquant mushroom dumplings, followed by split portions of the seasonal asparagus with Hollandaise sauce and a few potatoes, and for our main dishes, two heaping helpings of very savory beef goulash, also with potatoes. We paired this big, substantial meal with several glasses of good Zweigelt wine and immensely enjoyed both our meals and the ambience of the place. While we dined, a large party of local folks, kids and dogs in tow, showed up for a family celebration. Everyone smiled and seemed happy, and while the festivities went on, the sun came out.We lingered and enjoyed looking at all the interesting stuff on the walls, pictures of local folks celebrating, certificates and other memorabilia marking the decades of this family's ownership, and we felt lucky to have shared, vicariously, in the joy of ordinary people taking the simple pleasure of a meal together.The prices were very modest, well below what we would likely have paid at the restaurant which turned us away. To our great surprise and satisfaction, we had a friendlier, and more authentic experience, with dishes exceeding in both quality and quantity, anything we've previously had in Mariazell. On our next visit, we will come right to the Drei Hasen for lunch or dinner. We recommend you do so, too.
